Category: Reactivity

Posted on

Noise Phobia: tips and tricks for the 4th of July

4th of July dogs

Many dogs experience noise phobia and the 4th of July is almost upon us. Did you know that more dogs go missing on the 4th of July than any other day of the year? In fact, the busiest day of the year at animal shelters across the country is July 5th. Studies show that upwards of 50% of dogs express fearful behaviors in the face of loud noises. So, what can you do to help your dog navigate the 4th of July holiday?

Is my dog scared?

Firstly, we need to ask ourselves is this . . . Is my dog scared? Dogs who are afraid or stressed will exhibit some, or all, of the following body language cues:

noise phobia body language
  • Pinned back ears
  • Crouching or hiding
  • Clinginess
  • Trembling or shaking
  • Whale eye (whites of the eyes are showing)
  • Whining or barking
  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Yawning
  • Lip or nose licking
  • Drooling
  • Urinating or defecating
  • Vomiting

Why is my dog afraid of loud noises (AKA noise phobia)?

The first thing to consider is that so many more individuals than just your scared pup are sensitive to loud noises such as fireworks and thunder . . . combat veterans, babies, autistic children, dogs, cats, guinea pigs, rabbits, horses, sheep, zoo animals, birds and other wildlife . . . all experience noise phobia

We all have a startle reflex that is activated by loud noises. Some of us have nervous systems that are more sensitive to these types of stimuli. But if we know what is making that noise or it is expected, we can often regulate our reaction. But, dogs don’t have a gmail calendar or a weather app, so these phenomenon can take them by surprise and trigger their “fight or flight’ response.

Any type of past trauma associated with loud noises (e.g., your puppy was scared by his first fireworks experience, a veteran who experienced combat, etc.) will add to the severity of the noise phobia reaction. In some cases, something as simple as an oven timer, a smoke alarm, a single firecracker bang or a dropped pan can send an individual into a panic attack – so imagine how a full 4th of July fireworks display is going to affect them.

Some breeds, like the herding and gun dog breeds, are predisposed to noise phobias.

Moreover, dogs and other animals find loud noises to not only be aversive, but painful as well.

For example, while humans are not able to detect sounds above 20,000Hz, dogs can hear up to 60,000Hz. Some fireworks emit sounds above the level of human hearing, but dogs are able to detect those sounds.

In addition, we must consider the effect of trigger stacking on our dogs during the week leading up to the 4th of July. Trigger stacking is a phenomenon where a combination of multiple stressors, some might be quiet minor, occur over a short period of time and culminate in an extreme reaction.  If your dog is hearing a firework or two a couple of times each day for the week leading up to the 4th of July, he may already be trigger stacked before a single firecracker is lit on July 4th. By the time that the main fireworks display begins, your dog is way beyond his threshold.

Every individual has a threshold beyond which they will have a reaction. Each time an individual encounters a stressor, a certain amount of cortisol (a stress hormone) is released. Different stressors will create different amounts of cortisol in different individuals. If an individual event creates enough cortisol to cross the reactivity threshold, the individual will react. Stressors can also have an additive effect. It takes 5 to 8 hours for cortisol to dissipate from the blood stream. If an additional stressor occurs within that 5-8 hour window, the cortisol that is released from the second event is added to the cortisol still in the system from the first event . . . bringing the total level closer to threshold. So, if we encounter multiple stressors within a short period of time, they will have an additive effect and can cause the individual to go over threshold and have a reaction.

From my Trigger Stacking blog

Microchips and Identification

Most important, be sure that your dog is never without some form of identification. Additionally, check that his name tag has your current contact information. Double check your microchip provider website to be sure that 1) you are listed as your dog’s owner and 2) your contact information is up to date. If your dog (or other pet) is not microchipped, I strongly recommend having that done as soon as possible. Dogs can slip out of their collar/harness if they panic and try to run away. If you dog’s collar is caught on something, the tags can be torn away. Simply put, microchips work!

A study of more than 7,700 stray animals at animal shelters showed that dogs without microchips were returned to their owners 21.9% of the time, whereas microchipped dogs were returned to their owners 52.2% of the time. Cats without microchips were reunited with their owners only 1.8% of the time, whereas microchipped cats went back home 38.5% of the time. (Lord et al, JAVMA, July 15, 2009) For microchipped animals that weren’t returned to their owners, most of the time it was due to incorrect owner information (or no owner information) in the microchip registry database – so don’t forget to register and keep your information updated.

American Veterinary Medical Association

Other collar options are the GPS collars and attachments that allow you to track your dog’s whereabouts. Beware, however, that the cheaper models often do not live up to the range that is advertised. I have seen lost dogs with trackers that were supposed to work within 100 yards that didn’t actually ping the owner’s phone until the dog was less than 20 feet away.

Just in case you need to post lost dog flyers, always have current photos of your dog on hand. Take good shots from multiple angles to include any identifying markings, scars, etc. . . . close-ups and/or full body shots. If you have your dog clipped, have photos with both long coat and short coat – dogs often look very different before and after grooming!

Safe Confinement for Dogs with Noise Phobia

  • Double check gates to be sure that they are securely latched BEFORE letting your dog out of the house.
  • If you go for a walk, double leash your dog for safety. You can use a double ended leash like the one in the photo, or just use two leashes. Clip one leash to your dog’s harness and one to the collar. If the dog wriggles out of the harness, you still have one leash attached to his collar. NOTE: Attaching both leashes to two spots on the harness (or to the collar) is not proper double leashing. If the dog wriggles out of the harness, you are simply left holding an empty harness as your dog runs off.
  • Add a second layer of safety and take your dog out in the yard on a leash or long line. Dogs can be unbelievably agile and athletic fence jumpers when they are in a blind panic.
  • Be sure that your doors and windows are secured latched. A window screen is not going to hold a dog who is panicking and trying to escape.
  • Don’t leave your dog unattended in your yard – scared dogs may run through invisible fences, break tethers, climb or jump fences or dig their way out of yards.
  • Don’t take your noise phobic pup to a fireworks display – leave him safe at home.
  • If you are hosting a party at your home, put your pup in his crate, in a locked room for the evening. There is no reason to chance someone leaving a door open or, worse yet, someone spooking your already frightened dog and getting bit or having your dog run away.
noise phobia
Double leashing for an added layer of safety – attach 1 leash to the dog’s harness and 1 leash to the dog’s collar.

Safe Space

Your dog may already have a safe space – a spot in the basement, his crate, a particular bed or dog bed, under furniture, in a closet, etc. If not, you can create a safe space. The following are tips on how to create a safe space or enhance your dog’s current space.

Location

Find a quiet location where outside noises will be muffled. A location where you can block the flashes and lights from fireworks explosions is best – e.g., basement, a room/closet with no windows, a room with room darkening curtains, etc. can all be good options. If your dog likes his crate, you can cover it with a blanket that will help dampen sound as well as darken the space.

Be sure that your dog has access to plenty of clean water in his safe space. Panting or drooling will cause a dog with noise phobia to dehydrate quickly.

under desk
Under a desk
crate
Crate
bathtub
Bathtub
bed
Some dogs will choose a tight-fitting bed
chair
Comfy chair in a quiet room
under furniture
Under furniture
bathtub
Bathtub
under table
Under a table
quiet room
Bed in a quiet room
alone
Sometimes dogs will want to be alone . . . other times there is safety in numbers . . .
company
Sometimes dogs will want to be alone . . . other times there is safety in numbers . . .

Background Noise

Adding some kind of white noise and/or soothing noise will add to the peaceful atmosphere that you are trying to create for your dog.

  • White or brown noise machine or app
  • Radio turned to classical, country or reggae music
  • Box fan
  • Bathroom fan
  • Youtube has several tracks with calming music playing in a 8-15 hour loop
noise phobia

Adding a box fan during a recent fireworks show has made a huge difference for my Australian shepherd. However, every dog is different, the acoustics of every room is different and differnt noises affect individuals in different ways. Experiment with different methods and use the one that works best for your dog.

When thinking about noise phobia, remembers, there is a difference between sound proofing and sound masking. The concept of sound proofing may not be possible, so think about concentrating your efforts in masking those scary sounds.

Enrichment Activities for Combatting Noise Phobia

Licking . . .

Chewing . . .

Sniffing . . .

. . . 3 things that help calm a dog.

Give your dog her favorite type of chew, a stuffed Kong or Topple type of toy or some type of licki mat activity.

noise phobia

Comfort Items

noise phobia

Once you have your dog’s safe space set up, fill it with items that your dog finds comforting. Does your dog have a favorite stuffy or blanket? Add an old t-shirt or sweatshirt that you have been wearing. Your dog will find your scent comforting.

Calming Aids to Help with Noise Phobia

There are a lot of options on the market for calming products:

noise phobia
Thundershirt

Thundershirts® work on the same principle as swaddling a baby or giving a hug. The pressure causes the release of oxytocin and/or endorphins that have a calming effect for dogs with noise phobias.

You may have heard of Adaptil®. This is a pheromone product that mimics the pheromones produced by nursing mother dogs and have a calming effect on her puppies. Adaptil® comes in wall diffusers, sprays or collar form. It has been shown to have a calming effect on some dogs, so definitely something to try for a dog with noise phobia.

Nutraceuticals

There are many types of nutraceutical products that purport to act as calming agents. A nutraceutical is a supplement or food additive. These products are not regulated by the FDA, so they are a “buyer beware” type of product. You must do your research to determine if the product you have purchased contains the ingredients on the label. They can also be extremely expensive. There is anecdotal evidence that products such as; July 3rd, Rescue Remedy, calming chews, cbd oil, etc., do calm dogs BUT there is little to no scientific evidence to back up these claims. I am not saying that they won’t work for your dog – just be aware.

Pharmaceuticals

The other option, and the one that I would highly recommend looking into TODAY, is some type of pharmaceutical prescribed by your veterinarian. Pharmaceuticals can be used as a situational calming medications that will enable your dog to cope with his noise phobia. There are many different types of situational medications and your vet will help you choose the one that is right for your pet. If you do go this route, be sure that you follow the directions for dosage and administration on the bottle. Some of these drugs need a 1- to 2-hour onboarding window before they will take effect – meaning that if the fireworks show starts at 9pm, you will need to give the medication at 7 or 8pm. Others, however, take effect much faster. The length of effectiveness also varies, so be aware of this so that you are re-dosing properly.

Comforting your Noise Phobic Dog

noise phobia
noise phobia

Contrary to what you may have heard or read, you cannot reinforce fear. So, by all means, go ahead and cuddle your dog if he is asking for comfort.

Never punish your dog for being afraid or try to force/flood them into just “getting used to it”.

It is true that you can make your dog more afraid than he already is, by doing something yourself that scares him, by forcing him into situations that scare him already or by being afraid yourself. Emotions are contagious, so if you want your dog to be afraid of thunder, then be afraid yourself! But you’re not going to make him more afraid of storms if you stroke his head and tell him it’s going to be okay.

Dr. Patricia McConnell

Prepping for the 4th of July

  • Try to limit stress in the days leading up to the 4th of July. If your dog is already partially trigger stacked, it will be easier to send him over threshold on the 4th.
  • If you will be giving medication, be sure that you have your dog’s prescription(s) filled and ready to go.
  • Follow the directions to be sure that you are administering any medications or supplements correctly and in a timely fashion. You don’t want to realize 5 minutes before the big fireworks display is set to begin that you should have given your dog his medication 2 hours ago.
  • Fill and freeze your enrichment activities ahead of time.
  • Make sure that your dog’s safe space is set up and ready to use.
  • Take your dog out early in the day for some physical exercise.
  • Double leash your dog anytime you are outside your house or fenced yard. You can use two leashes (or a double-ended leash) and hook one leash to your dog’s harness and the other to his collar. That way, if a he hears an early firework and backs out of one, he is still attached to you by the other.
  • Make sure to take your pup out for a potty break before fireworks begin as he may not want to go out afterwards.
  • For highly fearful dogs who refuse to go outside during the day, you can create a doggie litter box that you can set up in your garage, mudroom or basement.

What about July 5th … and 6th … and 7th …

Where am I going with this? Remember trigger stacking? Well, If your dog was trigger stacked and stressed out in the days leading up to the 4th of July, how do you think he feels in the day or two that follow that big 4th of July fireworks display?!?

Remember, cortisol takes time to clear out of your dog’s system AND additional stressors will have an additive effect on your dog’s blood cortisol levels. Also keep in mind that your neighbors are going to continue to light off a firework or two in the days after the 4th. Each time a firework goes off, or a car backfires, or you drop a book, or there is a thunderstorm, your dog is going to continue to trigger stack. So what . . . well, if you have a reactive dog or a fearful dog, remember that trigger stacking can make all of their behavior issues worse . . . to the point of an increased incidence of aggressive behaviors and bite incidents during this time period. I recommend that you continue to follow the “day of” instructions for the first few days after the 4th. It is better to be safe than sorry.

Training for Next Year: How to Overcome Noise Phobia

What do you need to get started so you are ready for the NEXT 4th of July?

  • A recording of fireworks (or other scary sound like thunder, loud trucks, etc) with music and one without
  • Plenty of high value treats or high value toy
  • Time, Patience and plenty of Enthusiasm

Purchase sound recordings created specifically for desensitizing dogs to noises. iCalmPet has CDs that combine classical music with thunderstorms, fireworks or city sounds. You can find similar tracks on YouTube as well – or you can simply record the sounds yourself.

Training Process

The music and sound tracks are created to present the noises quietly at first, then progress to simulate noises that are closer and closer to you and with smaller and smaller intervals between. The idea is to play these tapes at the easiest level and at a volume low enough that it appears that your dog does not even notice. As you see your dog easily coping at the current level, you are ready to increase volume and/or move to a more difficult track.

This is all that some dogs will need. Many others, however, will need a bit more help making positive associations with loud noises. This is where your recording of just loud noises (no music) will come into play.

Procedure
  1. Start at a very low volume. We want to start where the dog is just noticing the sound. Play the sound and feed your dog a high value treat or reward with a game of tug, etc. Repeat this several times.
  2. Let’s put a label on it. You can call the loud noise anything you choose, but I would recommend choosing a label that you will remember to use for every loud noise. For example, if you choose “Boom”, then any and every loud noise is now “Boom”. We are trying to generalize the label to mean that any loud noise is a “Boom” that predicts good stuff.
  3. Now the steps become: Sound . . . Boom . . . Feed Treat and Celebrate. Repeat this several times.
  4. Keep treats on you during training so that you are ready if the real deal happens unexpectedly!
  5. Do several repetitions of Step 3 each day.
  6. As your dog becomes more comfortable, you can begin to increase the volume of the sound.
  7. You should also begin to vary the reward and location of the reward.
  8. The Final Sequence: Noise . . . Boom . . . run to the treat cupboard/refrigerator . . . Feed Treat or Play & Celebrate Enthusiastically.
  9. Now you are ready for the real thing.

NOTE: Order is important!

Be sure that your dog hears the noise BEFORE you label it and feed treats. If, for example, you see a flash of lightning and begin feeding before you hear the thunder, you risk reversing the association. Instead of seeing noises (thunder) as predicting good things (treats), your dog instead associates treats as predicting scary noises are about to follow.

Teaching positive associations with loud noises is pretty straight forward when it comes to noises like trucks, dropping pots/pans, etc. It is impossible, however, to simulate atmospheric changes and odors that accompany fireworks and thunder. Large fireworks are accompanied by sound, flashes of light and burning smells. Whereas thunder is preceded by changes in barometric pressure and humidity that dogs detect, as well as their keen ability to smell rain and hear thunder long before we are able to do so. This process can take a long time with these types of noises. So, the moral of the story is . . . start today so that you and your dog are ready for NEXT year!

noise phobia

But My Dog is Still Scared

There are times when regardless of how well prepared we think we are, our dog is simply not able to cope with the noise or the vibrations associated with fireworks (and thunderstorms). What can you do?

Well, the first thing you need to do is accept that your dog can’t help that he is fearful. Fear is an emotion and you can’t control emotions. Then you do the best that you can do. See your veterinarian about getting medication. If that medication is not working, don’t be afraid to tell your vet and ask about a different dosage or a different medication altogether. In some cases, consulting with a veterinary behaviorist may be a good option. VBs are veterinarians who have taken advanced work in canine behavior and have additional knowledge in the nuances of behavioral medications. Give yourself some leeway … there are a very limited number of VBs in the U.S. and wait times for an appointment can be months.

Relocate

I am not talking about moving house, but can you plan a dog-friendly vacation to a quiet spot over the 4th of July holiday. Would a simple drive out and away from the epicenter of the noise help your dog with his phobia?

No options? Hunker down with your dog, turn on the fan, turn up the TV, music or white noise machine and wait it out. If you dog prefers to be left alone, that’s okay. If your dog does need comfort, don’t be afraid to comfort him. There is no truth to the myth that comforting your dog just reinforces his behavior. Fear is not a conscious behavior that your dog has chosen to perform. Fear is an emotion that he cannot control. If being comforted makes you feel better when you are afraid, then your dog probably feels the same.

Kerrie Hoar, CDBC, CPDT-KA, ADT, FFCP

Kerrie Hoar has a master’s degree in Biology and is a certified dog behavior consultant, certified professional dog trainer and fear free professional. She owns Crimson Hound LLC dog training in La Crosse, Wisconsin.

Visit Crimson Hound’s Website
Posted on

Aggressive Dog: Reframing Owner Mindset about Aggression

aggressive dog blog

“Aggressive Dog” is one of the descriptions I hear all the time. What do you really mean when you say that you have an “aggressive dog”? Are you saying that you truly have an aggressive dog? Or do you have a dog who is using aggression or aggressive behaviors in certain situations?

Aggression is “an act that is performed with intent to cause harm” (depending on which resource your consult). I would argue that the vast majority of people will never see an aggressive dog in their lifetime. However, I regularly encounter dogs who are performing aggressive behaviors in order to change their circumstances. In almost every case, the dog is trying to ask for space.

Growling, snapping and snarling are efforts to avoid a conflict, not start one.

~ Dick Russell

How not to behave around working livestock guardian dogs.

Are the dogs in this video performing aggressive behaviors? Yes.
Are they aggressive dogs? No!!

This video actually depicts ritualized aggression. The dogs are Great Pyrenees dogs, a type of livestock guardian dog (LGD). LGD’s have been selectively bred for thousands of years (dating back to the early Romans) to guard territory and to guard their “flock”. Their genetics have been heavily influenced by humans selecting for dogs who will guard their flock from predators by instinctively reacting to any unfamiliar beings who enter their territory.

Ritualized aggression is selected over actual aggression in nature.

A coyote is injured in a fight has no emergency vet clinic to go to for help. In many cases, that coyote will die. In nature, if a coyote needs to defend his dinner from another animal, he will start with subtle body signals. E.g., whale eye, freezing, showing of teeth. If the challenger moves away, then the coyote simply goes back to his meal – no harm, no foul.

When fails to work, he will advance to growling, snarling, air snapping and even charging. If even that fails to work, the coyote will make a decision to either flee the situation or to stay and fight for his dinner. He will only make the decision to fight if the benefits outweigh the costs. For example, he thinks he will be successful, his avenues of escape are blocked or he is really really hungry and his need for food outweighs the risk of injury.

In the case of the LGDs in the video …

… they started barking when the cyclist moved into the flock and started to scatter them. They advanced when the cyclist ignored the barks and continued doing what he was doing. When the cyclist backs away, the dogs begin to retreat. But when the cyclist decides to hold his ground, notice that one dog remains with the flock while the second dog continues his attempts to warn off the intruder.

The dog is not advancing or attacking – just barking in an effort to get the man to move away. Even the person behind the camera suggests that the man simply back off. Unfortunately, the cyclist does not recognize that he is creating the standoff by refusing to back away from the dog. Note that the dog is not closing the gap. He is continually looking back to see where his flock is at.

How to interact with working livestock guardian dogs.

This is an excellent video explaining the behavior of livestock guardian dogs and what to do when encountering a working dog and his flock.

“WE MAY NOT LIKE CERTAIN BEHAVIORS, BUT WE CAREFULLY CULTIVATED CERTAIN BEHAVIORS IN DOG BREEDS OVER HUNDREDS OR THOUSANDS OF YEARS … SO WE NEED TO ACCEPT THEM, EXPECT THEM AND FIND WAYS TO WORK AROUND THEM.”

~ Kerrie Hoar

What happens when we take a dog that has had hundreds of years of reinforcement history for guarding his flock and plop him into the middle of suburbia?

You guessed it – he will guard his home and his people flock from “intruders”. The “intruder” in his eyes may look like the UPS or FedEx delivery person, the cable repairman or a visiting friend or relative. Again, these dogs are not aggressive individuals. They are simply dogs who are doing what we specifically bred them to do. We may not like it, but we cultivated behaviors such as this in dog breeds. We need to accept it, expect it and find ways to work around it. Once we understand this, it is easier to approach the situation to come up with a plan.

Most of these dogs will be described as the perfect dog at the vet, at daycare and when visiting others. The unwanted behaviors are happening only in the home. We are never going to train these dogs to welcome intruders with open arms. But we can work to reduce his triggers and manage his world to prevent situations from occurring. Set your dog up for success. Create a greeting ritual with your LGD puppy and practice this over and over.

We can also manage his world:

  • move the dog to another room with a wonderful chew toy when visitors are expected
  • set up a lock box at the end of your driveway for package delivery
  • condition a muzzle
  • install a second fence so that you have a buffer zone of dog – fence – space – fence – world
  • keep doors locked to prevent an open door policy that puts “intruders” in danger.

It is a whole lot easier to simply change a few of our daily habits rather than expecting that our dog will simply change his instinctual behaviors.

TRIGGER WARNING: Dog Bite at 0:10.

Are the dogs in this video performing aggressive behaviors? Yes.
Are they aggressive dogs? No!!

In this video, the dog is trapped and forced to escalate to biting. No one is listening to the abundance of signals telling the humans that he is not comfortable. Is it okay that the dog is biting a child – obviously not. However, it is not malicious. In fact, the bite is expected. Given the number of signals that the dog is displaying in a desperate attempt to communicate his stress, what alternative does he have?

This dog is actively learning that nothing short of a bite is going to convince his owners to stop. His environment is impacted by the fact that his small size (genetics) allows for him to be easily wrapped in a towel and held in place on a person’s lap for forced petting. His internal environment (self) is being overwhelmed by stress hormones as his fear and stress increases.

Understanding canine body language is key!

In order to know whetheror not a dog is comfortable in the current situation, you absolutely have to know how to recognize subtle body language signals. There will be more than a few subtle signals prior to a growl or a bite. Get to know your dog and then listen when he asks for space. You can read my blog about canine body language or watch my Canine Body Language for Pet Parents webinar.

What if we simply asked the dog if he would like to interact and then accepted his answer?

This is an excellent video that explains the concept of Pet Consent. Making yourself available for interaction and then waiting for the dog to give you an answer. He does not approach or walks away? He is not interested. That’s okay, don’t take it personally. He is just not up for petting right now. If he consents, pet for 3 seconds, then pause and reassess. If he stays or even paws at you, pet for another 3 seconds, pause, re-assess and repeat. But, f he moves away, he has had enough.

Eileen Anderson explains a Pet Consent Test in this video.

One of the quickest ways to get your dog not to trust you is to keep overriding your dog telling you he does not feel safe. 

~ Suzanne Clothier
LEGS logo aggressive dog aggression

As a Family Dog Mediator, when I see clients whose dogs are performing aggressive behaviors, our first step is to discuss the dog’s L.E.G.S.. In other words, how have the dog’s Learning, Environment, Genetics and Self played into the current situation. Next, we look at the circumstances under which the dog is showing aggression, as well as observing the dog to learn any subtle warning signals.

Finally, we develop a plan for the family that involves:

  • safety and management protocols
  • realistic goals
  • reward-based training techniques aimed at addressing the root cause rather than simply suppressing or masking the behavior
  • develop a training plan that is proactive, rather than reactive

While I have yet to encounter a dog that I would label truly aggressive, I have seen dogs that are not safe. These dogs may, therefore, be candidates for behavioral euthanasia due to an inability to provide balance between the dog’s L.E.G.S®.

Beneath every behavior there is a feeling. And beneath each feeling is a need. And when we meet that need rather than focus on the behavior, we begin to deal with the cause, not the symptoM.

~ Ashleigh Warner

What’s in a label?

Labels can be damaging when they affect how we view the individual to which we have affixed that label. When we use the label, “aggressive dog” or “aggression”, we tend to focus on his negative behaviors. We tell ourselves that the dog is doing this on purpose . . . to spite us . . . that he can stop any time . . . that he knows better. Labels make us more easily frustrated or angered by our dog’s outbursts.

“YOUR DOG IS NOT GIVING YOU A HARD TIME, YOUR DOG IS HAVING A HARD TIME.”

Instead, let’s remember that the dog is simply performing aggressive behaviors in response to something in the current situation. (e.g., fear, stress, pain or frustration) This helps us reframe our frustration and, instead, feel empathy towards our dog … helps us understand why he is acting this way … gives us more patience … enables us to listen when he is speaking through subtle body signals. We now begin to understand that “our dog is not giving us a hard time – he is having a hard time“. Resulting in us being are more likely to take a gentler, kinder approach . . and to advocate for our dog when the need arises. After all, in the moment, your dog felt that aggression was his only option.

When working with a dog who is reactive to certain triggers, we must understand that:

  • Aggressive behavior is just behavior. It doesn’t define you or your dog.
  • Your goal is not perfection, rather, strive for less negative, more neutral.
  • Set your dog up for success. Don’t continue into situations where you know he can’t cope.
  • Behavior happens. Aggression happens. All sentient beings have those moments. Our goal is to have a plan in place so that you know what to do.
body language aggressive dog aggression

If you and your dog are struggling, locate a professional dog trainer or behavior consultant who will help you. Look for someone who uses humane training techniques . Someone grounded in positive reinforcement training. And, at minimum, someone who follows the Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive philosophy. Aversive tools such as e-collars and prong collars suppress behavior. They may look like they have “fixed” the problem, but those feelings are still there. Too often, they will come out through some form of fallout.

Kerrie Hoar, M.S., CDBC, CCPDT-KA, ADT, FFCP

Kerrie Hoar has a master’s degree in Biology and is a certified dog behavior consultant, certified professional dog trainer and fear free professional. She owns Crimson Hound LLC dog training in La Crosse, Wisconsin.

Visit Crimson Hound’s Website
Posted on

Trigger Stacking

Trigger Stacking

I am afraid of snakes (ophidiophobia).  The biologist in me finds snakes fascinating; however, when I encounter one, my emotions take over. I become trigger stacked. I live close to a nice trail system looping through a marsh. The marsh is home to tons of wildlife – including a variety of snakes. Fortunately for me, I don’t see snakes very often, but ….

Imagine if you will . . .

One sunny afternoon, my husband and I decide to take the dogs for a long relaxing walk through the marsh.  Just as we start up the trail, I see a snake.  I jump and give a small shout . . . but, I haven’t seen a snake in the marsh in such a long time. Okay, let’s soldier on and not let it ruin the walk.  

Just a few hundred yards farther down the trail, I think I see another snake. No! However, as we get closer, I realize that it’s just a stick. Phew! We continue walking. NowI find myself spending more and more time scanning for snakes and less and less time enjoying the scenery.  

A little way beyond the halfway point of our loop, there is a rocky area. It looks like a perfect spot for a snake to sun itself.  I approach with my eyes riveted to the rocks. Sure enough, there is a snake – a little snake, but still a snake.  Ugh!  Now I am really feeling the stress.  Not only do I have to walk past that snake, but I am sure there are others hiding amongst the rocks.  

What now? While I could turn around, it will take longer to go back than it will to just keep going.  So here I am – feeling panicky and stuck.  Why didn’t I just turn around when I saw that first snake?!  Ugh!!

With no other option this point, I continue on. But what started as a nice relaxing walk has turned into a forced march of terror. I am no longer enjoying myself. Instead, I am agitated and on high alert, scanning all around me and imagining the worst.  As a consequence, I find myself walking faster and faster to just out of the marsh as quickly as possible.

When my husband innocently asks me to slow down a bit, I lose it.  I mean, I really lose it. To everyone’s surprise, including my own, I have turned into a raving maniac. I am yelling at him for even suggesting that we take the walk in the first place. The tears are close to surfacing . . . there is still a couple hundred feet of trail and there are sure to be more snakes …

YIKES!! Where did the rational adult go?  

You know, the one who KNOWS that a little garter snake is not going to kill her. The one who finds snake anatomy absolutely fascinating. You know, the one who has never even had a bad encounter with a snake. The one who keeps saying that she just needs to get over this fear of snakes. Where did this irrational fear even come from?

Reason and common sense clearly lost the battle to fear and panic . . . and the fight or flight response took over. Fear and anxiety function in a very similar fashion in the canine brain.  So, if you will, take a moment to insert a dog afraid of other dogs into this story. TI think you can imagine how what started out as a relaxing walk could quickly turn into a nightmare for your dog – and for you.

While you most surely understand this type of phobia, you may be wondering something. Why was it the innocent comment that sent me over the edge – and NOT the sight of the first or the second snake?  

The answer is TRIGGER STACKING.

What is trigger stacking?  

Trigger stacking is a phenomenon where a combination of multiple stressors (positive/negative, big/small) occur over a short period of time and culminate in an extreme reaction. 

Every individual has a threshold beyond which they cannot cope or will have a reaction (e.g., scream, bark and lunge, bite, run away, cower in the fetal position, etc.).

Each time an individual encounters a stressor, a certain amount of cortisol (a stress hormone) is released. Different stressors will create different amounts of cortisol in different individuals. If an individual event creates enough cortisol to cross the reactivity threshold, the individual will react.

Stressors can also have an additive effect. It takes time for cortisol to dissipate from the blood stream. If an additional stressor occurs within that window, the cortisol that is released from the second event is added to the cortisol still in the system from the first event. This adds up, bringing the total level closer to threshold. So, if we encounter multiple stressors within a short period of time, they will have an additive effect and can cause the individual to go over threshold

.

How does trigger stacking affect fearful or reactive dogs?

We often talk about threshold when working with dogs who are overly sensitive and vigilant about their environment. More specifically we talk about the importance of keeping them under threshold. Why? Because when these dogs go over threshold, they respond with explosive actions. They lose all sense of reason, along with the ability to think. They cannot learn when they are in this kind of mindset.

Trigger stacking can be a major concern with these dogs. Let’s look at an example that will demonstrate how multiple stressors can affect a sensitive dog.

Trigger Stacking diagram
stroller

Scruffy and his owner are out for a morning walk. They come upon a woman pushing a baby stroller – something that is completely new to Scruffy.  As the stroller passes by, Scruffy’s owner notices that Scruffy is yawning and ducking his head away from the stroller.  He can’t possibly be tired ….

barking dog

A few blocks later, a loose dog runs out of his yard and starts barking at Scruffy. Scruffy cowers, moves behind his owner and starts licking his lips. The loose dog’s owner calls him away. Since Scruffy didn’t growl or bark at the loose dog, his owner assumes that it wasn’t a big deal. They continue on their walk.  

While Scruffy’s owner is at work, a pollster stops by the house, rings the bell and leaves a flyer on the door. Later, a delivery person rings the bell a couple of times and then leaves a package on the front step. Scruffy barks and growls each time the doorbell rings,

Trigger Stacking

After work, the owner decides to take Scruffy out for another walk since he has been cooped up in the house all day.   As they walk past the next door neighbor’s house, their old dog walks up to the fence.  Suddenly, Scruffy explodes – barking and lunging at the dog.  The owner is very upset and yells at Scruffy as he drags him away. “What the heck is wrong with you?! You see that dog every day! You never act like that!”  

Trigger Stacking and the Ladder of Aggression

The graphic below shows the way that canine body language can advance from very subtle gestures to overly overt actions as a dog becomes more and more stressed and uncomfortable . . . often culminating in a bite if the stressor is not removed.

ladder of aggression

In addition to influencing how your dog reacts to stressors that he may encounter on a walk, trigger stacking is all too often the impetus behind a dog bite.  Dogs do not bite “out of the blue”.  Though the people involved may not recognize it, there is always a reason behind a bite.  Dog bites are very often the result of someone not recognizing the body language that is indicative of the dog’s level of distress. We ingnore their signals until the dog advances to the level of using very overt level such as barking, growing, snarling, snapping and biting.

Let’s take a look at another example.

Jane called a dog trainer, clearly in distress. Her Chihuahua, Joey had just bitten her. According to Jane, she was simply trying to wipe off Joey’s paw when he growled and snapped at her. The bite caught her forearm and left a red mark. Jane could not understand why this happened since she wipes off Joey’s paws all the time. The bite just came “out of the blue”. During their first session, the trainer asked Jane to tell her everything she could remember about what Joey’s day looked like leading up to the bite.

See if you can you recognize some of the signals that indicate that Joey was experiencing trigger stacking.
  • Joey had a veterinary appointment first thing in the morning. He doesn’t really like riding in the car, but since he is a little dog, Jane just lifts him up and pops him into the car.  He sat still and pouted all the way to the vet – never giving Jane any eye contact.
  • At the veterinarian’s office, Joey was faced with all of the sites and strong medicinal scents of the receiving area and crouched down in a corner. When they got to the exam room, Joey hid under a chair. He had his ears back and wouldn’t look at Jane.
  • Joey’s vet was booked, so he saw a new vet and vet tech.  He wouldn’t come out from under the chair, so Jane had to reach in and grab him. Since Joey wouldn’t sit still, the vet tech had to restrain him.
  • After a physical exam during which his teeth, ears and eyes were checked and his temperature was taken, Joey got a couple of vaccinations.  
  • While they were in the office, it had started to rain. As Jane and Joey ran across the parking lot to their car, a big dog in another car barked and surprised them both. 
Jane scooped Joey up and quickly popped him into the car before they both got soaked.
  • On the way home, Jane stopped off at a store. She had to leave Joey in the car – something he hates. But the weather was nice and cool and she just needed a couple of items, so he would be fine.
  • Joey started barking when Jane got out of the car and she could still hear him as she entered the store. When she came out, she could hear Joey barking as she approached the car. He was SO excited to see her. Silly boy, she was only gone for a few minutes.
  • On the way home, a car pulled out in front of Jane, she had to slam on the brakes. Joey slid off the seat, and then decided to just stay curled up on the floor.
  • When Jane and Joey arrived home, Joey walked through a couple of puddles on the way into the house. When they got inside, Jane set her bags down and grabbed a towel. She leaned over and took Joey’s leash off.
  • When she picked up his front paws to dry them off, Joey gave a bit of a growl and lifted his lip, but he does that sometimes so she kept going. When she grabbed his back leg to start drying his paw, Joey growled, spun around and nipped her arm.

Can you see all of these little triggers slowly adding up and how Joey was giving subtle signals throughout the morning in an attempt to tell Jane that he was feeling uncomfortable and stressed?

This is a perfect example of how we humans miss the subtle communications that tell us when our dog is becoming increasingly stressed . . . and, how these stressors can have an additive effect on the dog. None of these stressors in and of itself was enough to cause a bite, but as they continued to stack, they moved Joey up the ladder of aggression. Unfortunately, we too often see only the end result and view it as a gross overreaction to a tiny incident.

What can we do to help our dogs?

  •  When Scruffy yawned as they passed the baby stroller and licked his lips when facing the loose dog, he was trying to tell his owner that he was uncomfortable with the situation.  Be sure that you know how to recognize even the very subtle signs of stress in your dog. My blog, Dog Body Language:  How to Speak Dog, is a great place to start.  If you would like to take a deeper dive, check out my Canine Body Language for Pet Parents webinar.  Norwegian dog trainer, Turid Rugaas, wrote a fantastic book on the subtleties of canine body language – On Talking Terms with Dogs:  Calming Signals , Lili Chin has a very informative little book called Doggie Language that is filled with graphics and Tricia Hollingshead’s Listen to Me is filled with color photos and fantastic information . . .
  • Mediate the intensity of the situation by controlling duration and distance with respect to your dog’s triggers. If you think that your dog might be getting trigger stacked, you can prevent outbursts by maximizing distance from triggers on your walk, go to a quiet place for a sniffari or even skip the walk and do some trick training, nosework or even a scatter feed in the yard instead.

Understanding Thresholds Diagram

thresholds
  • Keep a journal of events that may be triggering to your dog and mediate the intensity of your dog’s encounters with his triggers in order to prevent over-threshold reactions and trigger stacking.
  • Possible triggering events to be aware of:
    • Children
    • People ringing the doorbell
    • Grooming, nail clipping or other types of husbandry
    • A trip to the vet
    • A new object – a stroller, wheelchair, holiday decoration, etc.
    • A new location 
    • A familiar location that has changed – an empty park may be full of people, a change in season or weather has changed a familiar landscape
    • A car ride
    • Other dogs or people when out on a walk
    • A new pet in the home
    • Visitors in the home
    • Losing a member of the household – moves/is out of town; a pet/person passed away
    • A pet sitter or boarding
    • Any change to his normal routine
    • Pain or illness
    • Time of day – light and shadows can effect visibility
    • Loud noises – construction; thunder; fireworks; car backfiring
  • Don’t push your dog’s boundaries until he is ready.  If he is stressed by an event, take extra care with other possible triggers.   Decrease intensity and duration as much as possible and increase distance as much as possible.  There will be better days for reactivity training.  Right now, your priority is self-care for your dog’s mental health.
  • If you and/or your dog are struggling, contact a certified professional dog trainer whose training philosophy is grounded in positive reinforcement to help.

Kerrie Hoar, M.S., CDBC, CCPDT-KA, ADT, FFCP

Kerrie Hoar has a master’s degree in Biology and is a certified dog behavior consultant, certified professional dog trainer and fear free professional. She owns Crimson Hound LLC dog training in La Crosse, Wisconsin.

Visit Crimson Hound’s Website
Proudly powered by WordPress